Dawn Running in Istanbul — When the City is Yours

It is 4:45 am in the morning and the abusive scream of the alarm clock wrenches me out of my sleep. I dreamily contemplate the snooze function but think the better of it and instead fall into a tried-and-trusted routine. Throw on sports kit, assemble a small rucksack, lace up trainers and gobble a small bowl of cereal. Outside, the seagulls are mewing away loudly in defiance of the early hour. The loudspeakers on the minaret rattle as the muezzin readies his voice for the first call to prayer of the day. Still sleepy, I stumble up the hill to the local taxi rank where…